CATASETINAE IS A large group including over 400 species composed primarily of five genera: Catasetum, Cycnoches, Mormodes, Clowesia and Galeandra. These occur across a large geographic area from Mexico through Central and South America, with the largest concentration of species in Brazil. This impressive distribution and wide range of habitats has resulted in the evolution of a magnificent variety of plant types, flower shapes and flower colors.
Catasetinae have come of age thanks to Nile and Lois Dusdieker for their endowment and the American Orchid Society for the establishment of the new Fred Clarke Catasetinae Award, which recognizes the grower of either a species or hybrid that is regarded as the most outstanding example of the Catasetinae— Catasetum, Clowesia, Cycnoches and Mormodes and their intrageneric and intergeneric hybrids, awarded during the preceding calendar year. I am truly honored to have this award named for me. This is the first year for the award to be conferred. The recipient is Gabriel Antich of Costa Rica for his plant of Fredclarkeara Doubtless ‘Gabriel Antich’ FCC/AOS. Congratulations, Gabriel!
[1] Fredclarkeara Doubtless ‘Gabriel Antich’ FCC-CCE/AOS (No Doubt × Catasetum Orchidglade); exhibitor: Gabriel Antich; photograph: Franco Pupulin.
This is the most exciting time for Catasetum growers! Just as the awards for Catasetinae have reached new heights, so has the age of Catasetinae breeding. Each year’s new hybrids and selectively bred species are setting increasingly higher standards of quality.
The genus Catasetum has nearly 230 described species (205 of them currently accepted as distinct species [Plants of the World Online 2025]). This makes for a wide variety of plant types and flower colors, sizes and shapes for breeding. With all this variety, there have been two recent standout species: Catasetum denticulatum and Catasetum tigrinum. These impart particularly impressive results when combined with traditional Catasetum breeding lines that are primarily based on the species Catasetum pileatum and Catasetum expansum. Catasetum denticulatum imparts high flower count, spotted flowers, small plant stature and a habit of blooming two to three times a season. Catasetum tigrinum adds full flower shape, imparting wide petals that fill the gaps between the dorsal and lateral sepals. It also adds high flower count, small plant size and blooms multiple times a year.
Catasetum denticulatum is a low elevation warm-growing Amazonian species described in 1986 by Francisco Miranda. The plant’s pseudobulbs rarely exceed 6 inches (15 cm) tall. Blooming, twice a year, a plant can produce up to 40 flowers on each pendulous inflorescence.
[2] Catasetum denticulatum ‘Orange Lip’
[3] Catasetum denticulatum ‘Dark Spots 42’
Catasetum tigrinum is a warmgrowing Amazonian species from low elevations. The flowers are flat with wide petals, and the cascading inflorescence displays 30 or more well-arranged flowers twice a season.
[4–5] Catasetum tigrinum ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS
The hybrid Catasetum Dentigrianum (denticulatum × tigrinum) is a match made in heaven! It combines the best qualities of each parental species, particularly the wide, full petal shape and color from the tigrinum parent and the spotting and dentate lip from denticulatum. Both parents added their small plant stature, high flower count and twice-a-year blooming habit. This is a mini-Catasetum.
[6] Catasetum Dentigrianum ‘Love This Flower’
[7] Catasetum Dentigrianum ‘Sunset Valley Orchids Excellence’
[8] Catasetum Dentigrianum ‘Sunset Valley Cutie’
In the new hybrid Catasetum Double Tiger (Dentigrianum × tigrinum), a second dose of tigrinum has been added. The additional tigrinum influence has resulted in wider and flatter petals. It also reinforced the white background flower color and added the bold spotting.
[9] Catasetum Double Tiger (Dentigrianum × tigrinum) ‘Bold Spots’
[10] Catasetum Double Tiger ‘Xtra Full and Flat’
Catasetum Memoria Dorothy Wells (Chuck Taylor × Dentigrianum) delivered excellent results, especially for exhibitors displaying their plants at orchid shows and at AOS monthly judging sessions. So far, eight plants have been awarded: one FCC, six AMs and one HCC. Congratulations to those of you who have won awards for your plants!
Orchid breeding is a combination of art, science, intuition and luck. The hybrid of Catasetum Fonseca Alfaro (Dentigrianum × tenebrosum) was largely the result of my intuition. Catasetum tenebrosum is known for its dark, nearly black flowers and contrasting green lip. It is also the first Catasetum to flower in the early spring. This is where intuition comes in. By combining the fine flower shape and twice-a-year flowering of Dentigrinum with the dark flowers, lip color and early season blooming habit of tenebrosum, I thought that the progeny would have flat flowers with dark segments and contrasting dentate lips, and bloom three times a year: spring, summer and fall. Do you love it when a plan comes together?
[11] Catasetum Fonseca Alfaro ‘Spots and Yellow Lip’
[12] Catasetum Fonseca Alfaro ‘Very Nice’
What makes a high quality Catasetum flower? Is it size, color, shape? Catasetum Diana’s Dots (Orchidglade × tigrinum) brings together all these elements plus wide floral segments, broad full lips, high flower count and nice arrangement. The AOS judges recognized these qualities in the plants exhibited by their owners, leading to one FCC/AOS, four AM/AOS and one HCC/AOS so far.
[16] Catasetum Diana’s Dots ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’
[17] Catasetum Diana’s Dots ‘Super Good’
[18] Catasetum Dianne F. Polmanter
Catasetum Memoria Dorothy Wells crossed to Diana’s Dots resulted in Catasetum Dianne F. Polmanter. Have you ever seen such a well-formed Catasetum flower? Why is the shape so good? When you evaluate the ancestry in the breeding, both denticulatum and tigrinum each appear twice, constituting 63 percent of the genetic makeup. The remainder is comprised of pileatum, expansum and a little bit of tenebrosum. The shape and color are setting a new standard of quality in this style of breeding.
[13] Catasetum Memoria Dorothy Wells ‘Fire Hot Lip’
[14] Catasetum Memoria Dorothy Wells ‘Silver and Gold’
[15] Catasetum Memoria Dorothy Wells ‘Sunset Valley Orchids Gold Lips’
Catasetum Melana Davison (denticulatum × Penang) was first made in 2012. It was a landmark hybrid, capitalizing on the small stature of denticulatum, and was one of the first mini-catasetums. This grex is characterized by high flower count, good shape and nice arrangement, and it blooms twice a year. Its quality has been recognized 12 times by the AOS judges, with 11 AM/AOS and one HCC/AOS.
[19] Ctsm. Melana Davison ‘Foxtail’
[20] Ctsm. Melana Davison ‘Red’
[21] Ctsm. Melana Davison ‘Summer Snow’
The latest breeding in the development of improved flower shape is evident in this new unregistered hybrid (Melana Davison × Diana’s Dots). Note the wide, overlapping petals, the wide, well-rounded, fimbriate lip, high flower count and good arrangement. The next breeding objective will be to add various colors. How about reds or yellows with red spots? They are coming!
[22] Ctsm. (Melana Davison × Diana’s Dots)
Catasetum Norm Tupper is a cross of Portagee Star and tigrinum. Catasetum tigrinum is still impressing me with its breeding potential. There is just something about the flower color and shape of Ctsm. Norm Tupper…We named the cultivar pictured here ‘Snow Leopard’.
[23] Ctsm. Norm Tupper ‘SVO Snow Leopard’
The quality of the flowers and the ease of growth of the current Catasetum hybrids will pave the way for even better examples of these remarkable plants in future generations.
It is hard to have favorites when you are a flower breeder. All the progenies are like your children. But Cycnoches have my favorite flowers, when they are blooming, that is! The cascading arrangement of the charming swanshaped flowers is a visual treat not to be missed each year. These five Cycnoches species—warszewiczii, loddigesii, cooperi, barthiorum and herrenhusanum have led the way in breeding. The first Cycnoches hybrids were impressive, and their quality inspired the next generation of breeding. Now, we are experiencing a breeding revolution in which complex hybrids are breaking boundaries in flower color not even imagined a few years ago.
Cycnoches warszewiczii is, in my humble opinion, the most spectacular of the Cycnoches and is responsible for my interest in Catasetinae. The first plant I saw was mesmerizing. I wanted it so badly, but the owner would not sell it to me! This set me on a quest to acquire a plant, and today that quest continues with my breeding to develop the best one ever.
[24] Cycnoches warszewiczii ‘SVO Swan’
[25] Cyc. warszewiczii ‘Jumbo’
Cycnoches loddigesii has easily identifiable flowers, and the acutely upswept petals and elongated narrow white lip set it apart. Some exceptional cultivars have very dark flower color. The colors and patterns of Cyc. loddigesii flowers have important characteristics that are imparted to their offspring, including coalescing of flower spots. This trait is the key to breeding dark colored Cycnoches flowers.
[26] Cyc. loddigesii ‘Darkness’
27] Cyc. loddigesii ‘SVO’
Cycnoches barthiorum is a complex flower with many different colors, including shades of rose, burgundy, green and white. The flowers are full-shaped, and the lips look like white spiders. It is a floriferous species, and plants commonly bloom with two or three inflorescences carrying 25–30 flowers each.
[28] Cyc. barthiorum ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS
[29] Cyc. barthiorum
Cycnoches cooperi must be one of the most spectacular Cycnoches species. Its flowers are a captivating rich chestnut brown color. Mature plants can produce two or three inflorescences per pseudobulb, and exceptionally wellgrown plants can bloom with up to 46 flowers that can reach 4.5 inches (11.4 cm) across. Cycnoches cooperi plants can produce more flower color than there is green plant! This is truly a floriferous species.
[30] Cyc. cooperi
[31] Cyc. cooperi ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS
Cycnoches herrenhusanum was described in 1991, not that long ago for such a spectacular species. It must have been well hidden in nature! The chartreuse flowers can be produced in surprisingly large numbers. It has proven challenging for me to grow well, but occasionally we get an amazing flowering. The plant in [32] has three inflorescences with 73 male flowers and one inflorescence with three female flowers!
[32] Cyc. herrenhusanum ’73 Gold Swans’
[33] Cyc. herrenhusanum ‘SVO Best’
In the next section on Cycnoches hybrids, I think you will be amazed to see that just these five species have been used to create such a wide range of new flower colors. These novel hybrids represent the latest advancements in Cycnoches breeding.
Cycnoches Providence ‘SVO’ AM/AOS (Richard Brandon × Martha Clarke)
When looking at the Cycnoches species you do not see any with yellow flowers and burgundy spots. How did this color combination come about? It is thanks to the yellow flower color from herrenhusanum, the burgundy spots from barthiorum and fine shape imparted by warszewiczii. Believe it or not, this unique color combination was inspired by the recent success in breeding cattleyas that have yellow flowers with red spots.
[34] Cyc. Providence ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS
Cycnoches Pineapple Popcorn ‘SVO’ (warszewiczii × Kevin Clarke)
Have you ever seen pineapple popcorn? Of course not. Have you ever seen a Cycnoches that produces green flowers with gold spots that are as flat as a board? This flower is as rare as pineapple popcorn.
[35] Cyc. Pineapple Popcorn ‘SVO’
Cycnoches Dark Swan (Richard Brandon × Chloronge)
Can you imagine my happiness when this bloomed? The fabled black swan orchid was born! Ok, so it is not exactly black, thus the name Dark Swan. We are reserving the name Cycnoches Black Swan for the future. Cycnoches Dark Swan has the darkest burgundy spots, which have coalesced to create a first in breeding Cycnoches. This hybrid demonstrated how choosing parents with the ability to coalesce spotting can be a used to develop completely new Cycnoches color combinations.
[36] Cyc. Dark Swan ‘Black Swan’
Cycnoches Melana’s Swan (warszewiczii × Dark Swan)
Check out that petal color. This cultivar was named ‘Black Wings’. Here, the petals are completely covered in coalesced spots. The spotted petals and sepals combined with the lip create a great contrast. I think there is huge potential for this grex in future Cycnoches breeding.
[37] Cyc. Melana’s Swan ‘Very Dark’ AM/ AOS. Photograph by Arnold Gum.
Cycnoches The Grinch (Richard Brandon × Cryminy)
Did I hear you gasp when you saw these photos? Cycnoches The Grinch has ushered in a new era of color. This hybrid proves that the “sky is the limit.” It is almost beyond the imagination—that is why we love hybridizing. When you see an orchid hybrid flower for the first time, you are the first person (in the history of the world) to see that first bloom. How awesome is that? When is the last time you had an experience like that? All you have to do is get some unbloomed new hybrids.
[38] Cyc. The Grinch
[39] Cyc. The Grinch ‘Black Wings’
[40] Cyc. The Grinch
Cycnoches Fire Embers ‘Black Ash’ (Richard Brandon × Melana’s Swan)
This hybrid is getting very close to a truly black swan orchid.
What is the future of black swan orchids? As you can see, the flowers are getting darker and darker, and we believe that this possibility is within our grasp. It will not be long before that possibility becomes a reality, and you will have a chance to possess one of these rare black swans.
[41] Cyc. Fire Embers ‘Black Ash’
Back in 1999, a new hybrid genus was established when the Royal Horticultural Society registered the hybrid Fredclarkeara (Fdk.) After Dark (Ctsm. Donna Wise × Mormodia Painted Desert). Thanks to cloning, orchid growers worldwide are familiar with Fredclarkeara After Dark ‘Black Pearl’ FCC/AOS.
[47] Fdk. After Dark ‘SVO Black Pearl’ FCC/AOS
Thanks to 25 years of selective breeding, the genus Fredclarkeara now contains many other fine hybrids that exceed the quality of the original Fdk. After Dark and come in a range of flower colors.
Fredclarkeara Beverly Danielson ‘Midnight’ GM/JOGA.
This cultivar was awarded in Japan, receiving a Gold Medal, the highest honor given. The judges took the unusual step of requesting two different backdrops for the award photos so that viewers could fully appreciate the color.
[48–49] Fdk. Beverly Danielson ‘Midnight’ GM/JOGA. Photograph by Hisakazu Sugiyama.
Fredclarkeara No Doubt (Mormodia Painted Desert × Ctsm. Susan Fuchs)
When this cross was made, we had NO DOUBT it was going to be good. The color of these flowers really opened my eyes and mind to the potential of Fredclarkeara breeding to create new color combinations. As Frank Zappa famously said, “The mind is like a parachute. It doesn’t work if it’s not open.”
[43] Fredclarkeara No Doubt ‘Nice’
[44] Fdk. No Doubt ‘Summer Wine’
Fredclarkeara Doubtless (No Doubt × Ctsm. Orchidglade)
This is a second generation Fredclarkeara hybrid. When it began to flower, the quality of the flower shape was, as they say, “off the charts!” Flowers had wide, full petals, large broad lips, and a range of colors not previously seen in Fredclarkeara breeding. The overall quality of the cross is reflected in the AOS judging results. To date, there have been 11 quality awards: three FCC/AOS, six AM/ AOS and two HCC/AOS. Very impressive!
[45] Fdk. Doubtless ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ FCC/AOS
[46] Fdk. Doubtless ‘SVO II’ AM/AOS
Fredclarkeara Desert Davison (Mormodia Painted Desert × Ctsm. Melana Davison)
This cross was inspired by the minicatasetum plant habit and high flower count of Ctsm. Melana Davison. One day it just came to me: this is how you make a small-growing Fredclarkeara hybrid! The results were spectacular. Flower counts range from 20–35 flowers per infloresence. Colors amd patterns range from boldly spotted to black. I was pleased with the cross as were five hobbyists from across the country who received AM/AOS awards for their plants.
[50] Fdk. Desert Davison ‘Dark Amethyst
[52] Fdk. Desert Davison ‘SVO Obsidian’
Fredclarkeara Gemstones ‘Plum Perfect’ (Mormodia Painted Desert × Catasetum Orchidglade)
Here is a Fredclarkeara with plumcolored flowers and black throated lips. Whaaat??!!! I am telling you, the best thing ever as an orchid enthusiast is getting high potential seedlings and blooming them for the first time. You will be the first to ever see those blooms, and you will have a unique plant in your collection that no one else has.
[51] Fdk. Gemstones ‘Plum Perfect’
Fredclarkeara Raffy Pye ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS ( Turning Point x Catasetum De Etta Harris)
When this cross was made, I was anticipating green flowers, and I set aside six plants to evaluate. I cannot keep too many plants to flower, as I have a space limitation like everyone else. This cultivar was the third or fourth plant to bloom from those set-aside plants, and it was an instant “keeper.” Everyone who saw it was amazed, as I was, by the green flowers with black markings! Several years later, it bloomed well, and it was awarded in January 2025 with two inflorescences of 15 flowers each.
[53] Fdk. Raffy Pye ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS
Fredclarkeara Upgrade ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS (Mormodia Jumbo World × Catasetum spitzii)
This impressive Fredclarkeara blooms with 30 flowers per inflorescence. The attractive yellow-green flower color is accentuated by the flower shape and arrangement, making this an exceptional example of this hybrid.
[54] Fdk. Upgrade ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’ AM/AOS. Photograph by Arthur Pinkers.
Fredclarkeara Emerald Gem ‘Green Jeans’ FCC/AOS (Mormodia Lime Tiger × Catasetum spitzii)
These flowers are about as green as you can get. Amazingly, all flower parts are the same shade of green, a concolor Fredclarkeara! When awarded, ‘Green Jeans’ had an impressive 84 flowers and buds on three inflorescences.
[55] Fdk. Emerald Gems ‘SVO Green Jeans’ FCC/AOS. Photograph by Arthur Pinkers.
What is there beyond Fredclarkeara? As an orchid hybridizer, I spend a lot of time thinking about creating the next generation and testing the limits of what is possible. One of these test hybrids was a Catamodes (Ctmds.) Dragons Tail (Mormodes lawrenceana × Ctsm. denticulatum) that produced flowers with very different colors and unexpectedly good shape. The flowers reminded me of the scales on a mythical dragon’s tail, thus the grex name. The flowers have hard substance and are spotted. This was really a test, as we had no previous experience breeding Catamodes. Although the flowers of Dragons Tail were of nice form and color, the plant was oversized in relation to the flower size—not a good combination and not aligned with my breeding objectives. It was hypothesized that the plant’s qualities could be improved by breeding it back to a Catasetum to produce second-generation Catamodes and this strategy worked. There were significant improvements: larger flower size, more symmetrical flower shape, large flat lips, intensified color and longlived blooms. The first two crosses that were made with Ctmds. Dragons Tail are now named Ctmds. Dragons Glade and Ctmds. Darkonium.
Catamodes Dragons Glade ( Dragons Tail × Ctsm. Orchidglade)
This grex had everything I dreamed of, including an impressive range of flower colors! This grex is one good example of why I love hybridizing.
[56] Catamodes Dragons Glade ‘Dragon’s Fire’ AM/AOS
[57] Ctmds. Dragons Glade ‘Black Dragon’ AM/AOS
[58] Ctmds. Dragon’s Glade ‘Pure Gold’
Catamodes Darkonium (Dragons Tail × Ctsm. John C. Burchett)
This was the second test cross with Dragons Tail. Another huge success! The flower shape, size, color and blooming habit proved that Catamodes breeding was going to be fantastic, and more hybrids along these lines needed to be made — immediately.
Exploring the potential of Catamodes breeding has led to many more amazing developments.
[59] Ctmds. Darkonium ‘Base Element’
[60] Ctmds. Darkonium ‘Black Element’ AM/AOS
[61] Ctmds. Darkonium ‘Elemental’
Catamodes Double Dragon (Dragons Glade × Ctsm. Orchidglade)
We crossed Dragons Glade back to its Orchidglade parent. This is a proven breeding approach, as the doubling of parental genes reinforces good qualities. The flowers are larger, fuller and come in a range of colors from black to yellow!
[62] Ctmds. Double Dragon ‘Midnight’
[63] Ctmds. Double Dragon
[64] Ctmds. Double Dragon ‘SVO Bold Spots’
Catamodes (Dragons Tail × Catasetum Susan Fuchs)
This as-yet-unregistered hybrid gave us nicely shaped flowers with a yellow base color and bold spotting. This result highlights a new area for development in Catamodes breeding.
[65–67] Catamodes Dragon’s Tail × Catasetum Susan Fuchs
Catamodes (Darkonium × Catasetum Donna Wise)
Breeding for black flowers is not (yet) an exact science, but we keep trying. With this cross, we chose to use Ctsm. Donna Wise, because I think it is the influence behind the good color in Fdk. After Dark. Check out the results: beautifully shaped black flowers with broad lips. I love seeing the outcomes from this type of breeding.
[68] Ctmds. Darkonium × Ctsm. Donna Wise
Catamodes (Darkonium x Ctsm. Dagny)
Continuing the concept of crossing dark Catasetum flowers back to Darkonium, this combination gave excellent flower count and arrangement plus good shape, black color and nice flower size.
[69] Ctmds. Darkonium × Ctsm. Dagny
Catamodes Kryptonium (Darkonium × Ctsm. Orchidglade)
How about this for a cool cross name—Kryptonium? A name like this could only come from a fan of Marvel movies. We got another surprise from this grex: flower colors ranging from black to yellow. How can that be? We will need to see how this kind of range is expressed in the next generation.
[70] Ctmds. Kryptonium ‘Brian Lee’
[71] Ctmds. Kryptonium ‘Yellow Gold’
Catamodes Warped Gravity (Darkonium × Ctsm. Susan Fuchs)
In this hybrid, we again see that Susan Fuchs imparts a yellow base color and bold burgundy spotting to the flowers. These are also large flowers with broad flat lips. I am still thinking about how to capitalize on all these good qualities.
[72] Ctmds. Warped Gravity
CULTURE
Catasetinae hybrids are fantastic, but how can I grow them best? As with all orchids, good culture starts with learning about the environmental conditions in the natural habitat where the orchid species have adapted to survive and thrive. Catasetinae plants have evolved to grow through a very specific series of seasonal environmental changes in areas that are warm to hot and very wet in the summer followed by a cooler, dry winter. In the spring, just before the onset of the rainy season, plants begin producing new growths and new roots. This action anticipates the period when moisture and nutrients will be plentiful. Plants then gather energy and develop their pseudobulbs during the hot rainy summer growing season. As winter approaches, the new pseudobulbs begin to drop their leaves and harden off to effectively store moisture while they are dormant during the dry winter season. Besides changing rainfall patterns, there are other seasonal environmental triggers for the plants: lengthening days in spring, warm nights and long days in summer, shortening days in autumn and short days and cool nights in winter. These seasonal changes are the signals for Catasetinae plants to start growing in spring, developing in summer, preparing for dormancy in fall, and becoming dormant in winter.
Dormancy is a plant’s adaptation to conserve moisture during the droughtlike conditions in winter and early spring. In the fall, leaves turn brown and drop off, reducing the plant’s capacity for photosynthesis and allowing the conservation of stored water and nutrients in the pseudobulbs. This ability to conserve moisture during the dry season is critical for the plant’s existence. Few orchid plants go through such a dramatic seasonal change. The key to your success in growing these plants is understanding the importance of the adaptations that Catasetinae have evolved in their natural environment.
An understanding of these adaptations and our experience in cultivating Catasetinae for more than three decades led to this seasonal guide to growing these plants successfully.
SPRING Catasetinae begin their growth in the early spring with warming temperatures and lengthening days. The new growth emerges at the base of the prior year’s pseudobulb. The plant does not need to be watered during this initial growth phase. The new growth then will produce roots that develop in anticipation of the forthcoming increase in water availability. Once the roots have reached a length of 3–6 inches (7.5–15 cm) it is time to begin watering and fertilizing. Restricting water during the initial growth period encourages better root development. This is a very important practice that should be followed for best results.
SUMMER With the heat, humidity and long days of summer, the plants enter a period of very rapid leaf growth and pseudobulb development. This is the time to water and fertilize. In most cases, irrigation will be needed two or three times a week. A balanced fertilizer applied at a rate of 1/2 tsp/gal (0.6 cc/l) is suggested. Bright light levels, at or above those suggested for cattleyas, will help to produce strong growth and flowering. This is also the time when you will begin to see the first blooms of the season. During active growth in the summer, the ideal day temperatures should be 75–95 F (23.9–95 C) with nighttime temperatures of 65–85 F (18.3–29.4 C). Catasetinae enjoy strong air movement. If you are growing in a greenhouse, use fans to circulate the air. Hanging the plants high in your growing area allows for maximum air movement around them as well as increased light levels.
FALL Catasetinae have fully developed their pseudobulbs by late fall, which is the peak of the blooming season. During this period, days are shortening, and temperatures are becoming cooler. Irrigation frequency needs to be reduced, and fertilization stopped so that the plants begin hardening off in preparation for dormancy. The first signs of dormancy in your collection will be yellowing leaf tips on the lower leaves. Shortly thereafter,the whole leaf will turn yellow and drop. The general rule to follow is on the first of November, reduce watering frequency and stop fertilizing. Continue to reduce watering frequency until late December, then stop watering completely.
WINTER During early winter, the plants complete hardening off their pseudobulbs, dropping the last of their leaves, and entering dormancy. By late December and January, most leaves should have yellowed or fallen off. Irrigation should have been stopped already. Plants will generally stay in this dormant state for one to three months. During dormancy, minimum temperatures should be 55–65 F (12.8–18.3 C) , and humidity should be maintained between 40 and 60 percent.
MORE ABOUT DORMANCY In the fall and winter, it is important that plants receive consistent dormancy signals. In their natural environment, this is caused by several factors: shortening days, cooler temperatures and lack of rainfall. Plants grown outdoors or in greenhouses will enter dormancy naturally in response to these triggers. When plants are grown in the home or under lights where seasonal changes in day length and temperature are less pronounced, the only dormancy signal might be the reduction in watering frequency. Starting on the first of November, reduce irrigation and continue to lengthen the dry interval until late December, when watering should stop, regardless of the number of green leaves. If there is a bit of pseudobulb shriveling, one or two additional waterings may be needed in January to plump the plants back up. It is important that plants go dormant on schedule so that they will begin their new growth in the spring, providing a long summer growing season and assuring the best flowering. Catasetinae in dormancy prefer humidity levels of 40–60 percent. This can be challenging to achieve in winter, especially in northern climates. An effective technique involves grouping the dormant plants on a humidity tray filled with water, which can help to create higher humidity levels around the plants.
POTTING MIX For seedlings and mature plants up to a 5-inch (12.5 cm) pot size, AAA New Zealand long-fibered sphagnum moss with the bottom ⅓ of the pot filled with Styrofoam peanuts to assure good drainage has proven to work well. A mixture of fine bark and perlite is also excellent. Catasetinae are not too particular about the potting medium if their seasonal irrigation needs are met.
CONTAINERS I prefer to grow in plastic pots; however, clay pots and baskets will work as well. Catasetinae do not like to be overpotted, and it is important to select a pot size that will allow for two years of growth but no more than this.
REPOTTING AND DIVIDING This is best done as the new growth is just starting to develop and before the new roots start to emerge. At this stage, you will best know how to orient the plant in the pot, and the new roots will grow directly into the new mix. Even though you have repotted, remember not to water until the new roots are 3–6 inches (7.5– 15 cm) long. If you notice new roots more than an inch (2.5 cm) or so long, consider slip-potting the plant up one pot size to avoid breaking the developing roots. Catasetinae do well when divided into two or three pseudobulb pieces. Divisions are made by cutting with a sterile tool or by carefully pulling the bulbs apart. Repotting can occur every second year, as plants should be potted in containers to allow for two year’s growth.
INSECT PESTS Catasetinae are generally pest free, except for spider mites that can be attracted to the soft leaves. Spider mites are quite small, and they live and feed on the chlorophyll in the cells on the undersides of the leaves. Spider mites are not actually insects and belong to the related group Arachnida, which also contains spiders and scorpions. For effective control, be sure to use a recommended miticide from your garden center.
Catasetinae plant growth is seasonally dynamic. When growth starts in the spring, you can almost watch the leaves lengthen in real time, and during the most rapid growth period in early summer, it is not uncommon to have leaf growth of 3–6 inches (7.5–15 cm) per week. Try putting a ruler in the pot next to your plant, and you will be able to measure this amazing growth for yourself. After many years of growing these plants, I am still surprised by how quickly they develop each summer. Suddenly, inflorescences appear, and many can flower two to three times a season. Now that is a nice trait! Shortly afterward, fall arrives, and leaves begin to yellow and drop off, and suddenly plants are in winter dormancy. Truly a dynamic cycle.
If you are new to Catasetinae, I hope you are inspired by this article, and we hope you will join us on the Catasetinae journey. If you already are growing these wonderful plants, you understand.
— Fred Clarke owns and operates Sunset Valley Orchids, located near San Diego, California, USA. His interest in Catasetinae spans over 35 years, and he is recognized as the foremost breeder of this plant group. His hybridization efforts and commitment to the world-wide education of hobbyists in the culture of Catasetinae has created renewed interest in this amazing group and helped to establish Catasetinae as ideal plants for orchid growers around the world (www.sunsetvalleyorchids.com; (email SVOrchids@outlook.com).
